In December 2024, the KANKITSU LABO US team visited Ehime Prefecture, Japan. We had the opportunity to visit an Iyokan farm with a chef to exchange views and visions of Iyokan farming and beyond. Keep reading to see our perspectives on growing, cooking with, and sharing kankitsu with the world.

 

Megumi: How many Iyokan trees do you have right now?

Kai: While I haven't calculated an exact number, our Iyokan orchards are located not only in this area but also in some other places like up in the mountains. However, the number of trees has significantly decreased overall, and our harvest volume has unfortunately dropped to about a third of what it used to be.

Megumi: Just speaking roughly, what do you see in the recent changes in the Iyokan farm industry?

Kai: In recent years, we've observed a significant decline in the number of Iyokan farmers, and consequently, the price of Iyokan itself has also been trending downwards. A major factor contributing to this is the decreased consumption of Iyokan among younger generations. They seem to perceive Iyokan as either difficult to eat or not particularly appealing in terms of taste.

Indeed, even in direct sales from the producers, the primary customer base is the older demographic, with younger people rarely making purchases. The reasons for this decline in demand likely include the thickness of the skin, which makes it cumbersome to peel, and the general effort required to prepare it. While there are some consumers who eat the peel as well, the emergence of new varieties like 'Beni Madonna,' which have thin skins and are easy to eat, is drawing consumers away and further contributing to the decreased demand for Iyokan.

Megumi: How are the Iyokan looking for you this year?

Kai: To be honest, we haven't been able to dedicate as much attention to our Iyokan trees as we'd like, so they've become a bit smaller due to insufficient care. Consumers tend to prefer the larger, more visually appealing Iyokan, and the smaller ones can feel quite meager once you've peeled them. A large, deeply colored fruit is generally more desirable.

Interestingly, one of the unique aspects of Iyokan is that they actually benefit from about a month of storage in a warehouse after harvesting. This allows them to undergo a sort of post-ripening process, which helps to reduce their acidity and enhance their sweetness. So, unlike some other citrus fruits that are best enjoyed immediately after picking, we don't really recommend eating Iyokan straight off the tree. You certainly can, but they'll likely be too tart for most people's liking.

Many Ways to Enjoy Iyokan
Megumi: Currently, we're introducing Iyokan to our audience in America as Dry Candied Iyokan Peels. That's actually been really well-received by American chocolate manufacturers. The idea of Iyokan pairing well with chocolate was a surprise to me. As an Iyokan farmer, is there a way you'd ideally like to see it used?

Kai: It's certainly intriguing to hear about the ways Iyokan is being used in America. However, with our current distribution system, once we ship our Iyokan, we don't have any further involvement in how it's ultimately used. Personally, my hope is that more people would enjoy Iyokan as a fresh fruit.

You know, the number of farmers growing them keeps decreasing each year, so for our part, we want to at least maintain a certain level of Iyokan production to ensure it doesn't disappear entirely. I anticipate that more growers might stop producing them in the future, and I think that would be a real shame. It's something that's been grown here in Ehime, and we have a strong attachment and sense of pride for Iyokan.

Megumi: What makes Iyokan so special to you?

Kai: I think one of the appealing qualities of Iyokan is its balanced flavor profile – it has a nice touch of acidity without being overly sweet. Another advantage is its relatively long shelf life. If stored properly, we can harvest them in late December and they'll keep in good condition until around the beginning of March.

Also, the 'Miyauchi Iyokan' variety, which is now a representative type of Iyokan grown in this region, was actually discovered near our farm back in the 1960s. So, in that sense, I definitely have a strong connection and sentiment towards Iyokan.

Megumi: Does Miyauchi-Iyokan have a special flavor?

Kai: To be frank, when it comes to Iyokan, we haven't particularly focused on creating a drastically different taste profile. Instead, our main emphasis has been on the vibrancy of the peel's color, the richness of the flesh's hue, its distinctive aroma, and achieving a good level of sweetness. Given that the taste differences among citrus varieties can be relatively subtle, we believe it's the visual appeal that largely influences consumers' purchasing decisions. Nowadays, there's a strong trend towards prioritizing appearance, and consumers tend to avoid fruits with blemishes or imperfections.

Of course, as farmers, we understand that even if an Iyokan has a scratch on the outside, the inside is still perfectly edible. We often buy and eat those ourselves because it would be a waste otherwise.

Upcycling and Culinary World 
Megumi: What do you usually do to the “damaged” citrus?

Kai: When we ship through the agricultural cooperative, the standards are more strict – only perfect fruit can be sent. So, any Iyokan with even minor scratches, we usually pack ourselves and sell directly at local farmers' markets or roadside stands.

Megumi: Yubaco, I’ve heard that you are putting a lot of focus on Upcycled food and are concerned about food waste.

Yubaco: This is my first time visiting a citrus farm, but in my experience with other types of produce, I've often asked farmers directly for their 'seconds' or ‘the damaged’ – the items that don't quite meet the cosmetic standards for retail. My thinking is that if the produce is going to be cut up and used in cooking, any minor imperfections in appearance don't affect the quality for that purpose. It seems like there's an opportunity for a better connection between producers and those of us chefs, who can utilize these perfectly good, but less visually perfect, fruits and vegetables. It could be a win-win situation, reducing waste on the farm and offering a more cost-effective ingredient for chefs and food businesses.

Megumi: I of course love the flavor and uniqueness of our Dry Candied Iyokan Peels, but I also love that they are made using upcycled peels.

Kai: From a grower's perspective, we understand the cost benefits for restaurants in using non-standard produce. Currently, any Iyokan with cosmetic damage typically goes towards juice production or other processing. However, this often results in a reduced price for us due to the lower value assigned to fruit for processing compared to fresh market sales.

Yubaco: I travelled around to different countries this year and, something that really strikes me is that the countries with a thriving primary industry seem to have a certain vitality. It makes me wonder why there isn't a greater focus on supporting that sector. From a chef's perspective, it feels crucial. Farmers like you produce these incredible ingredients, and my role is to use my skills to bring out their best flavors and transform them into energy for people. It feels like a fundamental connection that deserves more attention and support.

Check out part three to learn how Yubaco used her skills to bring out the best flavors of Ehime prefecture’s agricultural goods and KANKITSU!